Using an unapproved modem that violates our Device Attachment Rules and/or causes Network Interference may result in service suspension. Using a device other than what is listed below may impact your performance and quality of service. The following modems have been researched, tested, and approved for usage on the Blue Ridge network. Wireless client devices (laptop/smartphone/tablet/etc) Must support wireless 802.11AC and use the 5Ghz band Hardwired devices (PC/MAC/Game System/etc) must have 1000 Mbps interfaces Wireless client devices (laptop/smartphone/tablet/etc) Must support wireless 802.11N or 802.11AC Hardwired devices (PC/MAC/Game System/etc) must have 100 Mbps interfaces Requirements in order to achieve maximum speeds on individual devices
Wireless Router/Access Points must support Wireless 802.11AC and use the 5Ghz band Router/Switch/Hub must have 1000 Mbps interfaces Wireless Router/Access Points must support Wireless 802.11N or 802.11AC Router/Switch/Hub must have 100 Mbps interfaces Network Requirements in order to achieve maximum speeds All other issues on the UPC device have been resolved, so it looks like that’s the end of wrestling with this awful UPC Technicolor/Thomson device.Requirements for High Speed Internet System Requirementsĭocsis 3.0 certified and support for 16 channel downstream bonding, and 4 channel upstream bonding or Docsis 3.1 certified I am using an very old router set up purely as a WiFi access point, by turning off it’s firewall and NAT, and connected to the UPC box via Ethernet cable in a LAN port (as opposed to WAN port). I switched off the WiFi permanently on this router about four weeks ago, and have not needed to reboot or reset this modem since then, the unit finally seems to be stable with WiFi disabled. It comes up as a pretty low signal anyhow at about -70dBm compared with the signal from my neighbours at -60dBm, and there is no external aerial on the thing. I have not experienced this yet as I live in a small flat, but apparently the WiFi is shit as well, drops out and pretty weak. Put you own nice, working, stable, store-bought router in the DMZ.
[EDIT: Yeah yet more anger here! But here is a workaround: oh wait! NO YOU FUCKING CAN NOT BECAUSE THEY DO NOT HAVE A GODDAMN BRIDGE MODE ON THIS FUCKING PIECE OF SHIT MODEM.
Obvious answer would be to fuck all this bollox and set it up in bridge mode and get my own router to do what I want. … This edit replaces quite a lot of CAPS SHOUTING AND SWEARING!!! I was pretty angry!] [EDIT: At this point, when I was initially setting up the router, I lost the rag here and wanted to throw the router out the window, as my ftps server needs a large range open to work and had taken a bit of work to get up and running in the first place. but it does not open port ranges, only the lowest port on the range, so you have to create multiple entries for each individual port to actually create a range. the boxes insist you put in port ranges like 60000-60100.
#CABLECOM TECHNICOLOR MODEM PC#
x.x.x.10 is where i traditionally put my main pc so that is annoying also. There is a mysterious device set up on 1st DHCP lease at 192.168.0.10, cannot get rid of this, seems to be something on the router itself. I am convinced that the firmware has been remotely updated since I first got it on my own unit as the unit now reboots itself after certain changes where it did not before, and generally the router GUI seems a little smoother. Not guaranteed to work for everything, some stuff is just plain broken on this unit. If this happens try making the change and then reboot the router yourself after each individual change (maybe even rebooting after each step if it involves a few changes in the router GUI). Device quirksĬertain things it will give the appearance of changing but they do not *actually* change. like I wanted in the first place.Īlso, I would suggest temporarily changing the subnet mask on the router and your current PC from 255.255.255.0 to 255.255.0.0 to prevent headaches of not being able to access the router during the change over. I was able to change it by doing something strange.įirst I moved the router’s IP to 192.168.0.200 and starting address to 192.168.0.210, without googling the subject I was just guessing that that may not ‘overlap’? Then after it rebooted itself I was then able to move the LAN to 192.168.1.1 etc. Make sure the Primary Network and Guest Networks do not overlap IP pools:” There seemed to be an issue with it initially, and then after that it would come up with the error This can now be changed back to the familiar 192.168.1.x range.